Key takeaways
- Measure your head. Use a soft tape around the head about one finger width above the ears and eyebrows. Match the result to the maker’s size chart, which usually lists sizes in inches or centimetres and in hat sizes such as 7 1/4.
- Between sizes. Many wearers size up and add a hat sizing strip or tape inside the sweatband. Most makers advise against stretching a hat that is too small.
- Oval or round heads. Hats are shaped on an oval block. If you have a rounder head, you might find certain models sit tight at the front and back; try several.
- Crown height. A taller cattleman crown looks more traditional, while a shorter crown sits closer to a fedora.
- Wind. For riding, consider a chin cord or stampede string if the maker offers one.
For most buyers, the Stetson Open Road is the best all-round cowboy hat, because it comes in straw, hemp and felt and suits a wide range of faces and uses, while the Oak Ridge suits riders who want a full-size traditional western shape and the Stratoliner suits anyone who wants a dressier fedora-style look rather than a ranch hat. Your choice comes down to season, how rough you are on hats, and how formal the occasion is.
Our top picks
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Stetson Hats at a Glance
| Model | Best for | Key details reported by makers and reviewers | Limits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open Road (felt) | All-round western wear, first Stetson | Reviewers describe a balanced shape that works on many head shapes, for men and women. The 6X felt version is described as thicker and stiffer and suited to people who are hard on hats | Felt is warm for summer. Felt grade varies by version |
| Open Road (straw, shantung or hemp) | Summer, outdoor events, trail days | Reviewers note a cattleman crown and a 2 3/4 inch snap brim on the shantung straw, giving a smaller, fedora-like feel | Straw is more fragile than felt and does not like crushing or heavy rain |
| Oak Ridge | Traditional cowboy look | One roundup describes a 3X fur felt with a 4 inch brim and a 4 1/4 inch cattleman crown. Another source calls it wool felt and a retailer listing shows a lower felt grade | Felt grade differs between listings, so confirm which version you are buying |
| Stratoliner | Dressier occasions, town wear | Described by one reviewer as much dressier than the Open Road. Offered in fur felt, not wool felt | Not a working ranch hat. No straw version found in the sources reviewed |
Because Stetson changes materials and colours between seasons, treat the table as a guide to model character, not a fixed spec sheet. Always read the product page for the exact felt grade and crown height.
Understanding Felt Grades and Materials
Stetson describes its felt hats using an X rating. A higher number of Xs traditionally indicates a higher fur content, a finer finish and a lighter, softer hat, though the scale is not governed by an industry standard and each maker uses it slightly differently. Wool felt hats are the entry point. Fur felt hats, typically rabbit or a rabbit-and-beaver blend, cost more and shape better. Reviewers describe the 6X Open Road as a basic Western felt that is thicker and stiffer than a dress felt, which suits people who are hard on hats. Another reviewer who tried the Royal Deluxe felt Open Road found it more pliable than Stetson’s western felt, yet sturdy.
Straw hats are measured differently. Shantung is a paper-based straw with a smooth finish, hemp is a heavier natural fibre and palm leaf is common in work hats. Straw lets heat escape, but it can crack if crushed, and most makers advise against soaking.
Stetson Open Road: The Versatile Pick
Several reviewers describe the Open Road as the most versatile and popular of the three models covered here. A retail roundup lists it in straw, hemp, fur and felt, so you can choose by season. One roundup describes the 6X felt as the lightest-feeling of the 6X hats it covers, at roughly 2.4 pounds.
Who it suits: riders and casual wearers who want one hat that looks right with jeans or a jacket, and gift buyers who are not sure of the wearer’s taste. The balanced crown and brim work for most face shapes. If you plan to wear it riding in wind, you may want a stampede string or a snug fit, because a flat-brimmed hat catches the breeze.
Stetson Oak Ridge: The Traditional Shape
One reviewer ranks the Oak Ridge as best overall for a traditional western look, describing a 3X fur felt with a 4 inch brim and a 4 1/4 inch cattleman crown. Another source lists it as a mid-range hat made from Stallion Collection wool felt, and a retailer listing shows it as a 2X felt blend. These descriptions conflict, which suggests the felt grade varies between versions or years. The practical lesson is to read the listing carefully, because a wool-felt Oak Ridge and a fur-felt one will feel and shape differently.
Who it suits: riders who want a larger brim for sun protection, ranch and trail wear, and anyone who prefers a classic Western profile to a snap-brim look.
Stetson Stratoliner: The Dressy Option
A review of the Stratoliner says it has none of the Open Road’s Western aspirations and is much dressier. It is a fedora-style hat in fur felt. A separate review reports that it is not available in wool felt and notes rabbit and beaver felt versions at different price tiers. For riders, it is the one to wear to town, a wedding or a show dinner, not the arena.
Who it suits: buyers who want a dress hat with Stetson heritage and a lighter, more formal feel than a cattleman crown.
Sizing and Fit
- Measure your head. Use a soft tape around the head about one finger width above the ears and eyebrows. Match the result to the maker’s size chart, which usually lists sizes in inches or centimetres and in hat sizes such as 7 1/4.
- Between sizes. Many wearers size up and add a hat sizing strip or tape inside the sweatband. Most makers advise against stretching a hat that is too small.
- Oval or round heads. Hats are shaped on an oval block. If you have a rounder head, you might find certain models sit tight at the front and back; try several.
- Crown height. A taller cattleman crown looks more traditional, while a shorter crown sits closer to a fedora.
- Wind. For riding, consider a chin cord or stampede string if the maker offers one.
Care Tips
- Pick the hat up by the brim edge, not the crown pinch, to avoid wearing out the front.
- Store crown-down on a flat surface or on a hat rack, never brim-down for long periods.
- Use a soft hat brush, brushing counterclockwise on felt as many care guides advise.
- If a felt hat gets wet, let it dry at room temperature away from direct heat. Reshape gently.
- For straw hats, avoid crushing and keep out of heavy rain.
- Sweat can stain the band; replace or clean the band if it becomes damp.
If you wear your hat daily, rotate between a felt hat for cold weather and a straw hat for summer, which extends the life of both.
Budget Tiers
| Tier | Typical choice | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | Open Road in straw or hemp, or a wool felt Stetson | Lighter on materials, less shape retention |
| Mid-range | Open Road or Oak Ridge in 3X to 6X felt | Good balance of shape and weight; felt grade varies |
| Premium | Fur felt or beaver felt versions, such as higher-end Stratoliner builds | Finer finish and lighter feel, but costly and delicate |
Pick X If You Want…
| Pick this | If you… |
|---|---|
| Open Road felt | Want one dependable hat for everyday and riding |
| Open Road straw or hemp | Need a summer hat for hot days and events |
| Oak Ridge | Prefer a big-brim traditional western shape |
| Stratoliner | Want a dressier fedora-style hat for town or formal events |
| A different brand entirely | Need a work hat you will not mind getting soaked or crushed |
Alternatives to Stetson
Several other makers produce western hats if a Stetson is more than you need. Resistol, Bailey and Rodeo King are among the western hat makers that sell felt and straw hats across several price levels. Each maker uses its own felt-grade system, so compare descriptions rather than the numbers alone. If your priority is sun protection on the trail, a wide-brimmed straw hat with a chin cord can be more practical than a felt one. If you ride in a helmet, a hat is for the ground, so keep one at the barn for off-horse wear.
How to Decide
Start with climate and use. Felt suits cooler weather and holds shape in wind. Straw suits heat. Next choose the crown and brim: tall crown and a 4 inch brim for a classic look, a snap brim for something smaller. Then think about material grade, balancing your budget against how hard you plan to be on the hat. Lastly, confirm fit by trying a few sizes in person if possible, because a poorly fitting hat is uncomfortable and tends to wear faster.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which Stetson is best for a first cowboy hat?
Many reviewers point to the Open Road because it comes in felt, straw and hemp and suits many head shapes. It is considered a versatile, middle-of-the-road style. If you prefer a larger brim, the Oak Ridge is the traditional alternative.
What does the X rating mean on a Stetson?
The X rating is a traditional marker of felt quality, with higher numbers generally meaning higher fur content and a finer finish. It is not governed by a universal standard, so makers use it differently. Read the product description for the material, and compare in person if you can.
Can I wear a felt cowboy hat in summer?
You can, but felt retains heat. Many wearers switch to straw or hemp in warm months. A lighter-weight felt may feel cooler, but straw is generally the better summer choice.
How do I know my hat size?
Measure the circumference of your head above the ears and eyebrows with a soft tape, then match it to the maker’s chart. If you are between sizes, many people choose the larger size and add a sizing strip. Avoid forcing a hat that is too small.
How do I keep a felt hat in shape?
Store it crown-down or on a rack, handle it by the brim, and brush it gently with a soft hat brush. If it gets wet, dry it at room temperature away from heat. Do not leave it in a hot car.
Is a Stetson worth the cost compared with cheaper hats?
That depends on how often you wear it. Reviewers describe Stetsons as well-made and long-lasting, particularly in higher felt grades, but cheaper hats can serve for occasional use or rough work where damage is likely. Match the hat to the job.





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